Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Archive for the ‘2 Days’ Category

Nitro-Scrambled Egg and Bacon Ice Cream, Pain Perdu, Tea Jelly
Specialty Equipment: electric slicer, syringe, vacuum machine, fine digital scale
Specialty Ingredients:
skimmed milk powder, malic acid, gelatin 170 Bloom, liquid nitrogen
Days: 2
Dish as in The Fat Duck:

——————————————————————————————————————————————-

Liquid nitrogen part 2. Egg and bacon ice cream. Possibly the most famous dish of the Fat Duck. Known around the world. I can understand why. Here’s an at home version.

Two things had to be made 24 hours in advance of eating the dish: (part of) the custard base for the ice cream and the candied bacon. The latter needed to be very thin slices, made by cutting a frozen block of bacon on an electric slicer. I’m sort of done with stepping into a shop, making a ‘strange’ request and have eyes stare back at me in amazement. Luckily my friend, the guy cooking the liquid nitrogen recipes with me, owner of three burger joints in Amsterdam, could slice bacon for me. It was not frozen prior to cutting, but still very thin.

With bacon slices at hand you have to vacuum pack them for a few hours with either a sugar syrup or maple syrup (see the rest of the paragraph), unpack them, brush them with maple syrup and dry them for 24 hours. I put it in the (possible) discrepancies post, because reading the recipe, it is unclear if you have to vacuum pack the bacon with sugar syrup or maple syrup. Prior to the vacuum pack instruction the recipe asks to make a sugar syrup, but later on there is no mentioning what to do with it. I read the first maple syrup as sugar syrup, hoping they made a typo.

(more…)

Read Full Post »

46. Chocolate Wine

Chocolate Wine, Millionaire Shortbread
Specialty Equipment: centrifuge, water bath, pH meter
Specialty Ingredients: whey powder, glucose, gold powder
Days: 2
Dish as in The Fat Duck:


——————————————————————————————————————————————-

Look at this baby. It’s a Dewar flask with liquid nitrogen! I’ve been searching for liquid nitrogen for ages, calling restaurants and cookery schools, to ask if they used liquid nitrogen and if I could possibly visit them to complete two recipes from the book. Every request was turned down with either a ‘no’ or a ‘we don’t use that stuff’. I got to talk about it with my dad, and what do you know, the solution to my problem was close to home all along. He has contacts at the University of Utrecht, who use liquid nitrogen by the truckload. It was absolutely no problem to pick some up. Funny how some things play out.

A (possible) problem is the type of Dewar flask the liquid nitrogen is stored in (not one for long term storage) and its ability to ‘hold on to’ the liquid nitrogen. It was picked up Wednesday and I’m planning on using it Saturday to make the lime mouse and bacon & egg ice cream recipes with some friends, so I hope it will make it until then. Fingers crossed.

Not really related to liquid nitrogen, but related to the search of ingredients, does anyone have any knowledge on procuring fresh hearts of palm? I’ve found some suppliers in the States and contacted them, but didn’t get any responses. Has anyone ever bought hearts of palm and/or knows where you can get some?

(more…)

Read Full Post »

41. Apple Pie Caramel

Apple Pie Caramel, ‘Edible Wrapper’
Specialty Equipment: petri dishes
Specialty Ingredients: spray-dried apple granules, glucose, malic acid, powdered gelatine 200 Bloom, glycerine
Days: 2
Dish as in The Fat Duck:

——————————————————————————————————————————————-

The Fat Duck Cookbook contains a number of small dishes, which can be finished in a couple of hours, with maybe some waiting in between starting and finishing a recipe. I always keep them for the moments I curse everyone involved in the book. In the past I’ve pushed on when the feeling of what the hell I’m doing started to boil up, but the problem is I start to rush things, leading only to mistakes and therefore more frustration.

The search for short ribs and the recipe involving cooking them for 3 days was one of those things that drove me a bit nuts, so I made the caramels to remind myself there is light at the end of the tunnel. Service announcement: whining will stop.

Making the caramel is as straightforward as the Fat Duck recipes get. You have to mix spray-dried apple granules with cream and bring it to the boil. In another pan you have to boil sugar, glucose, apple juice, salt, malic acid and butter to 150˚C. When the latter comes to that temperature the former has to be added in three stages. I had some problems with the granules and cream, because the spray-dried apple soaked up all the cream, making it impossible to dissolve the granules in the cream. To make sure it was all well mixed I used a hand-held blender to incorporate the granules/cream mixture in the caramel.

(more…)

Read Full Post »

39. Beef Royal, Third Course

Beef Royal (1723), Third Course
Specialty Equipment: water bath, digital thermometer, steamer, thermomix, pressure cooker
Specialty Ingredients: gellan F
Days: 2
Dish as in The Fat Duck (can’t find any photos of the dish as served in The Fat Duck):

——————————————————————————————————————————————-

Last week I had to cook a meal for family. For the main course I bought a big piece (2kg) of Côte de Boeuf and at home started working on it. While scraping the meat from the bones I realized the cap surrounding the eye of the meat was probably the spinalis dorsi, the cut of meat needed for the third course of the Beef Royal recipe. So with the purchase of the meat I, unknowingly, killed two birds with one stone. I’m not sure if the spinalis dorsi runs along the entire rib eye or is limited to a section of the entire rib.

When I detached the spinalis dorsi from the rest meat it didn’t have the best of shapes, serving wise, so I put it in a cardboard box and vacuum packed it. After a few hours the piece was straightened out.

(more…)

Read Full Post »

38. Beef Royal, First Course

Beef Royal (1723), First Course
Specialty Equipment: water bath
Specialty Ingredients: black truffle, truffle juice
Days: 2
Dish as in The Fat Duck (can’t find any photos of the dish as served in The Fat Duck):

——————————————————————————————————————————————-

What’s not to like in this recipe? Sweetbreads, black truffle and frying action! The recipe had me at sweetbreads and secured a place in my heart with the other two words. I was thinking I would really have to fuck it up in the kitchen to end up with an unsatisfactory result. Fortunately disasters didn’t make it around the corner and we had the most delicious upscale beer snack.

I started with the sweetbreads. I’ve ordered it from restaurant menus without thinking the last couple of years, but only started to cook it myself about a year ago. It is often seen as something difficult to cook, like octopus, quail, steak or aerated chocolate (ok that can be difficult, haha), but in fact isn’t.

The two main methods of preparing sweetbreads are: poaching them, then remove the outer fat and membrane and pan-fry them or remove the membrane before cooking and then pan-fry them until cooked (without poaching). In this recipe they have to be cooked at 65˚C for 2 hours, chilled, cleaned, breaded and fried. If you’ve never tried to cook it at home, change the situation. It may not look appetizing in its raw state, but you can go eat yourself silly instead of nibbling on a few small pieces in a restaurant. I do the same with lobster. I can get it for 17,5€/per kg, so I feast on it at home instead of eating half a lobster for 20 to 30€ at a restaurant.

(more…)

Read Full Post »

36. Cox’s Apple

Cox’s Apple, Fromage Blanc, Apple Milk Caramel, Vanilla Ice Cream
Specialty Equipment: fine digital scale, vacuum machine, ice cream machine, dehydrator
Specialty Ingredients: gellan F, malic acid, yellow pectin, nappage pectin, spray-dried apple granules, fructose
Days: 2
Dish as in The Fat Duck:

——————————————————————————————————————————————-

I always wondered about the attitude towards seasons in the Fat Duck kitchen. Some chefs are absolutely anal about them. Then there are those with a more mild approach. As far as I can tell The Fat Duck has had, at least until last summer, a set menu and an a la carte menu with minimal changes. Meaning asparagus and strawberries in the winter and sole and turbot all year round. I’m all for some leniency, but don’t know any other top class restaurant with one menu for the entire year.

I’m bringing it up, because I was looking for Cox apples. Regular supermarkets never carry them, so I went to a good greengrocer and asked if they had any. The girl behind the counter gave me a bewildered look as if I asked for her phone number without any preceding small talk. In the end the owner was called from the back and he explained we’re at present far removed from the season of Cox apples. There was no way he could get hold of them.

Why would you choose to serve the same menu all year and not follow the market availability? Maybe the development time behind recipes makes it impossible to create enough dishes to fill a different menu four times a year. Maybe The Fat Duck is trapped in its own fame with customers demanding famous dishes, therefore making it difficult to pull them of the menu. Anyone else any ideas on this topic?

Season or not I had already set the recipe in motion, so I bought another type of apple: Jonagold. They are often used in apple pies here in the Netherlands. First the vanilla ice cream though, the apples will come later on.

The ice cream is made in the same way as the one in the Macerated Strawberries dish. I found a partial solution to the ice crystals problem, driving me absolutely nuts sometimes, with domestic ice cream machines. After the machine was done churning the ice I used a hand-held blender to smooth it out. It’s still not 100% smooth, but a bit better.

(more…)

Read Full Post »

32. Black Forest Gateau

Black Forest Gateau
Specialty Equipment: vacuum machine, water bath, digital thermometer, ice cream machine, home decorating tool, paint spray gun
Specialty Ingredients: glucose syrup, malic acid, yellow pectin, invert sugar syrup, gelatine 170 Bloom
Days: 2 (1 if you’re nuts, couple of hours if asking for trouble)
Dish as in The Fat Duck:

——————————————————————————————————————————————-

Some time ago I made two dishes with a couple of friends. We didn’t have is too easy, but decided the next time we should make a crazy ass recipe, like the Black Forest Gateau or the lamb recipe. This week it was time for the next round. We had the same time frame, one day (actually a bit less, more on that later), but the party changed to two (me plus one).

On top of that I thought it would be fun to send out e-mails asking if anyone would like to taste our soon to be materialized cake. The result: 11 reviewers of our attempt. The stress kicked in (at least for me) when we started on judgment day at around 3 o’clock in the afternoon and only had 5 hours to finish the recipe without proper pastry equipment! The beers from the night before didn’t help. Luckily my friend has a couple of years of restaurant experience under his belt, and attacked the dish, pushing components out one after another.

Making it for a lot of people meant we made one big cake. What changed to the recipe is the kirsh cream or white chocolate mousse on the outside of the gateau. We just made a layer of the mousse, and didn’t let it enclose other layers as seen in the picture below. In one large ‘mould’ it is not doable.

Also, there a fewer pictures than normal. Sorry about that.

(more…)

Read Full Post »

Older Posts »